Tuesday 25th August
I treated myself to breakfast at the flying pan again that morning. Had to get my English breakfast tea fix! I went for one last walk around the streets of HK before I went back to the hostel to collect my bags and go to the airport. The plan was to just enter Vietnam for just over a week so I was going to get the free 15 day visa and then move on to Thailand. As I was checking in, the lady asked to see proof of my onward travel from Vietnam because she said they would need to see when I arrived in Hanoi. Small problem. .. I hadn’t actually booked my outgoing flight from Vietnam yet. It was about 2.30 by this stage and my flight was going to start boarding in 40 minutes. She told me that I couldn’t check in until I could show her some kind of confirmation for an onward flight. She told me to go and book one and get back to her before ten past 3. Ahhh! I dragged my big bag across to the wall and attempted to access the rubbish WiFi on my rubbish phone. I finally found a decent flight to Bangkok on the date I was looking for. I was about to book it when the WiFi dropped out and my phone wouldn’t load any pages. It took about 10 minites to get to this stage so I was starting to panic. The minutes ticked by as I started to curse my stupid phone. I realised that I might not make the flight so I did a panic SOS to the boyfriend to see if he could help me. Thank God the WiFi was good enough to let me send messages. My phone eventually got to the payment page of the flight at about 3 o’clock. For some reason this is when my phone decided to break completely and wouldn’t let me type the card number in to pay for the flight. I was in full on panic mode at this point and resorted to shouting the numbers at my phone and threatening to smash it into tiny pieces. As it got to 10 past 3, the lady from check in came over and I probably not so calmly told her the situation that I had found myself in. I was all red face, bushy hair and sweat. She said I would just have to sign something that said they don’t hold responsibility if Vietnam didn’t let me enter. Meanwhile, hero of the year, Kevin Chandler, donned his cape. He extracted the relevant information from a very stressed me and booked the flight for me. Best boyfriend award! I signed the paper and had to get escorted through security and passport control because I was so late. The WiFi was still being rubbish and I hadn’t received the confirmation email. I needed to recieve it before I flew to show them at the other end. For some reason they decided to take their time in security and scan my bag twice. Brilliant. I eventually made it through to my gate and received the confirmation e-mail just as I stepped through the gate and out of the WiFi zone. Absolute nick of time. STRESS!!!
Of course, when I arrived in Vietnam they didn’t even ask to see any blummin e-mail and I just walked straight on through. Spectacular.
I got the shuttle bus from the airport the Hanoi old town. On the bus was a girl called Sabrina from Austria who had come to Vietnam for just over a week and she had planned to go to the same places as me. Perfect! She hadn’t booked a place to stay yet so I told her to come to my hostel to see if there was space. There was! We checked in, received a much needed free beer and took a shower. We went up to the rooftop bar and met a load more people. We decided to join the bar crawl. We went to a few different bars. I was pretty tired though from my stressful day so we didn’t stay out too late.
Wednesday 26th August
I had obviously already spent a few days in Hanoi and so had seen the sights. It’s a beautiful city though and so joined the walking tour with Sabrina that morning. We went On a different route this time though which was good. We spent 2 hours wandering around the little streets and the lake. There is so much to see. Little old ladies selling drinks and cigarettes from the road side, so many shops, stalls, little restaurants or carts selling street food. There are hundreds of motorbikes that constantly beep as they clog up the streets. It’s impossible to get bored walking around. We finished off the tour in a little cafe and tried iced egg milk coffee. It’s wasn’t my favourite drink though and I dont think I would have it again. The froth is egg yolk and sugar
We went back to the hostel after and I spent a while sorting out my plan for the next few weeks and getting things booked. We also needed to book our trips for the next few days. We wanted to visit Mai Chau, Halong Bay and Ninh Bihn. We went out to some of the tourist booking places to find the best tour we could for Mai Chau. We found a good one which was 2 days and 1 night and booked it for the next day. Earlier we had also put our names down for a Vietnamese feast at the hostel that evening. We still had some time to go until it started so we went to Cong Cafe and I had a delicious frozen lemonade.
There were some ladies that had come down from Sapa, which is right in the north of Vietnam, to join us for the meal. They were part of the Hmong tribe. They were learning business skills from some Canadian ladies so they could establish their homestays better. It was their first time visiting Hanoi, they normally live very simple lives in the mountains. I was amazed at how good their English was and how tiny they were! They literally came up to my waist. We sat chatting to them while we ate our food.
It was actually really good Vietnamese food. Spring rolls, skewers, rice, vegetables, tofu and chicken. The Hmong women were so eager with their new found business skills, they were handing out business cards and asking everyone to go and stay with them. It was brilliant. After dinner, we chilled out for a bit. Sabrina went out to a few bars again but I stayed in and had a cheeky Skype session with the bestie and a relax before bed.
Thursday 27th August
We got picked up at 8am for our trip to Mai Chau. It’s slightly north west of Hanoi and takes about 4 hours on a bus to get there. There were 5 of us on the 2 day, 1 night tour. Me, Sabrina, a German couple called Caroline and Felix, and a girl from Guatemala called Jennifer. Mai Chau is quite high up in the mountains. We were about half way there and our tour guide told us that the driver would have to switch off the air con when we got to the mountain pass because the bus needed the power to get up the hills. Haha. We had to open the Windows for a bit instead. On the way we stopped off a few times for a break. The last stop off was when we were nearky there. We stopped overlooking the valley of Mai chau. There was loads of little huts on the roadside where you could buy food from the locals. The view looking down into the valley was very beautiful.
We arrived at our lovely home stay, dropped our bags in our room and settled down for a big Vietnamese buffet lunch. Again the food was really good. After lunch the locals put on a show for us. A group of women and two men danced and sang. It was very traditional to their tribe. They danced with scarves, fans, bowls and all kinds of things. It was really good! I loved it.
At the end they got up and asked us to join in. We walked round in a circle clapping and then holding hands. It was like a Vietnamese version of the hokey cokey. They also let us try their local rice wine which was very nice.
After all the dancing we went on a bicycle tour through the local villages and rice fields. I couldn’t get over how green the rice fields were. They were stunning.
The bikes wern’t the best. Mine was far too small for me and Caroline’s didn’t have any breaks hardly!
We rode in convoy down little tracks with rice fields on either side. Caroline was in front of me and managed to do exactly what I was hoping I wouldn’t, she accidentally rode off the path and fell in the muddy/wet rice field. She yelped and I immediately dumped my bike and went to her rescue. She managed to save her phone so I grabbed that before I pulled her out. It was hilarious. Poor Caroline!! I am glad it wasn’t me for once though! We carried on our tour. All the houses are built up on stilts because the area floods a lot in the rainy season. The houses have two sets of stairs, one for the males and one for the females. Apparently you get badly punished if you use the wrong set of stairs. While we were riding we went past a funeral. Everyone was sitting around drinking with white cloths on their heads while some men were building the coffin. Our tour guide told us that when someone dies, they also make a miniature version of a house, called a death house. This is so they have somewhere to live in their afterlife. We cycled round for about 2 hours in total. The whole area is so beautiful. Just before we got back to our home stay, we rode through the main town. We were all really hot and sweaty so we stopped off and our tour guide bought us all a sugar cane juice drink. It was so refreshing! We got back to the home stay and all chilled out for a bit before we got a shower and had dinner. That evening we all sat outside with a beer and chatted for ages before bed.
Friday 28th August
The second day of the tour was meant to be visiting the local market in the morning and then going to the 1000 step cave. Our tour guide hadn’t given us brilliant reviews though. Haha. Apparently the cave isn’t looked after by the government so it’s not the best…. and who wants to climb 1000 steps in 38 degrees!? Instead we decided to rent out some scooters and go exploring on our own. We got a local tour guide to draw us a little map and we set off to find the waterfall and lake.
Felix and Caroline led the way on their bike, then Sabrina and Jennifer on one and then I had my own bike.
We went towards the town and got on the main road. We rode for about 20/30 minutes through the beautiful countryside. After a while the roads got a bit dodgey. We came to a cross roads. One way was a very steep hill that was mainly rocks and mud,
The other was flat but muddy and with a massive puddle. We stopped and asked some locals the way to the waterfall and they pointed up the big hill. Brilliant. I have only just got used to driving a scooter on the road so it wasn’t ideal. I managed to get a little way up the hill before I over revved and the bike skidded and lurched forwards. I managed to catch the bike but at the same time my left calf caught the exhaust pipe and it burnt me and left a nice big smile shape. Oowww
Luckily a very nice local man arrived at this stage. He didnt speak a word of english but he saw what happened and mimed to me that he would drive my bike up for me. The others who were more used to scooters managed to get up but it was a bit hairy at times. Stupid Vietnamese “roads”. Of course when we got to the top we showed the local our map and he showed us we had come in completely the wrong direction. The map was the wrong was round so we had even left the town in the wrong direction. Ahhh!! There was another normal road going down the hill again (that ended up being the muddy one with the big puddle) so thank God we didn’t have to go down the hill of burn leg and death. We drove back towards and through the town and eventually found our way to the lake. The roads still wernt the best. Very rocky and full of potholes but we managed without further injury. It was only a little waterfall but we also found a nice bridge and stopped to take some pictures.
Apart from my mini accident, I had a great time. We made it back to the home stay in time for another buffet lunch. The food is really nice but a lot of it is fried or oily which obviously isn’t good. What’s wrong with a nice crisp salad?
After lunch we took our bikes out again to the local markets to have a look around. There are loads of shops full of hand made bags and scarves and trinkets. We were the only tourists there, it was so quiet and lovely to look around.
I bought a little bag and a bracelet. We also stopped off for another sugar cane drink. Before long we had to go back to pack our bags and get the 4 hour bus back to Hanoi.
We arrived in Hanoi and me and Sabrina said goodbye to Caroline, Felix and Jennifer. We went to find some food and to book our Halong bay tour because we wanted to leave the next morning. We found a tour with a good price but the blummin card machine broke so we were in the shop for about an hour. We eventually made it to our hostel and checked in at about half 9. Sabrina wanted to go out for a quick drink and she tempted me with the promise of a glass of wine. We went out for a quick one and then came back as we were being picked up at 8 in the morning.
Saturday 29th August
The bus journey to Halong City again took about 4 hours. So much bus time!! We arrived at the docks and all got on our big boat that we would be spending the night on :mrgreen:. There was a group of friends from Malaysia on the tour and a French girl as well. We checked in to our little rooms on the boat and had some lunch. As we ate, we set sail towards the beautiful Halong Bay. Unfortunately the weather wasnt the best. The place was still magnificent though and the clouds added to the beauty as they hugged the tops of the big limestone rocks that jutted out of the water.
We manouvered around all the rocks and docked against one which had a cave and a good viewing point. We all got off the boat and climbed the steps up into the cave and to see the view
The cave was really impressive. There were three main caverns and they got bigger in size as you went through. The most interesting bit about the caves were the rock formations inside. As we walked through our tour guide shone a light on the different rocks. There were loads of formations that looked like different things, there was a monkey, a Buddha and a Dragon and many more. There was the usual phallic shaped rocks which the Asians seem to love and make up a lot of stories about. Some of the formations were a bit far fetched and you kinda had to squint and tilt your head to make them out. When we got out the cave we got back on the boat and went towards a little beach. This little island also had one of the best view points as its so high up. There were a lot of steps involved and it was very (!!) sweaty, but we made it to the top and it was well worth it. There was a 360 degree view of Halong Bay. The place is breathtaking.
There was definitely a storm brewing by this point so after a while we went back down all the steps and back on to our boat before it started to rain. That evening we had dinner on the boat; Squid, fish, vegetables rice etc. After dinner I tried a bit of fishing. It wasn’t normal fishing. There was a big light shining on the water attracting all the tiny fish. I was given a little rod with about 5 hooks in a circle on the end of it. You kind of had to bob the rod in and out of the water and hope you pierce a fish in the body. One of the boat crew managed to catch one. I tried for ages but failed. Oh well.
After the fishing we all went to the top deck to play cards for a while before bed.
Sunday 30th August
Waking up on a boat in the middle of Halong Bay is pretty amazing. I got up at half 5 with hopes to see the sunrise but it was raining and cloudy. It was so calm and peaceful though. Everything was so still and quiet apart from the little splashes of rain hitting the water. Breakfast was at 7am and then we set off across the water to the pearl farm. The pearl farm was really interesting. They make man made pearls there as well as harvest natural ones. They grow the pearls in nets in the water until they are about 18 months old. After that, they get them out and insert a little ball of bone into the ovary of the oyster and the membrane bit of the oyster which makes the pearl grow. They put it back in the water for another 18 months and then pull them up to see if there is a pearl. It only works 70% of the time because sometimes the bone falls out. Then only 10% percent of the 30% that grow are perfect pearls, which means they are perfectly round.
I got chosen to pick an oyster to see if there was a pearl inside. The lady prized it open and poked around in the yellow mush until she found the pearl. It wasn’t perfectly round but it looked beautiful to me.
We had a little look round the shop at all the beautiful perfect pearls before we went to collect our bags. Me and Sabrina were the only ones doing 2 night tour and so we had to join a different tour to continue on our journey to Cat Ba island. We waited on another little boat for a bit before we were joined by another group. They wear mainly older Chinese people. We got taken to another big boat where we had some ice coffee and chilled for a while. We met our new tour guide, Mr Hero, he was great. Another smaller boat arrived and we got on board and were taken to a little island for our bicycle tour. We joined a group Dutch people more our age and were given a bike each. It was raining loads at this point so we put on our rain coats and set off.
There wernt any gears again but this time there were two really steep hills. Nightmare. We had to stand up on the pedals to get enough power to get up the hill and feel the burn!! We made our way along the paths to the local fishing village.
We stopped off and got to try some local brewed “wine”. We tried rice wine, snake wine and flower wine. The flower wine was the best of a bad bunch. The snake wine, not surprisingly, was absolutely vile
We carried on our bicycle tour a bit more through the village, waving to the locals as we got drenched. We stayed in the village a little while before we biked back to the boat. The Dutch were then going on a trek. We wanted to go but we had to go back to our boat with our tour. All the Chinese people we were with had got an electric car to the village. We got back on the boat and had chance to dry off a bit and we were served lunch. We carried on sailing through the water. It cleared up a bit as we made it to monkey island. We were told not to go near the monkeys as they bite. There were some cute baby ones though and the beach was nice. Well, it would have been, on a less miserable day.
We stayed here for a while chilling out before we got the boat to Cat Ba island. Me and Sabrina checked in to our hotel and had a rest before we went to have a walk around the town. Cat Ba is quite touristy so it was mainly souvenir shops and restaurants. We had dinner at the hotel and met some German girls who were also staying there. We decided to all go out for a drink and had some cocktails in a bar before going to bed.
Monday 31st August
Happy 1 year Anniversary to my love!!! :mrgreen:😍 Love you millions. Sorry (not sorry) about the PDA
We got picked up early from our hotel after breakfast. We had a long journey a head of us back to Hanoi. The sun had come out though and it was a glorious day! We sunbathed on the top deck of the boat as it took us to a bigger boat to Halong City. I was happy that we got to see Halong in the rainy mist and on a clear sunny day.
Me, Sabrina and Mr Hero played cards on the bigger boat after lunch. We arrived at Halong City at about 12pm and then got on our bus back to Hanoi. Another 4 hour journey. We arrived and checked in to our hostel. The burn on my leg from Mai Chau was pretty painful and it hurt when I walked. When I took the bandage off I realised it was infected. Quick trip to the pharmacy for antibiotics, more bandages, burn cream and cleaning solution. Bad times! Sabrina went shopping and I went up to the top bar to get some food. We stayed there for a bit playing big jenga. I went back to the dorm to chill out and rest my leg while Sabrina and a few others went on to some different bars.
Tuesday 1st September
Me and Sabrina had planned to go to Ninh Binh province together. Some girls in our dorm, who I knew from when I was in Hanoi previously, were going on bikes that day instead of on a tour. Sabrina wanted to rent bikes, my leg told me no so I booked to go on the tour solo while Sabrina went with the others.
I got picked up at about 8 and got chatting to an English girl and some Italian girls on the 2 hour bus journey. When we arrived our tour guide took us around two of the temples there. They were a lot like the Citadel in Hue. It was good though because our tour guide explained a lot of the meanings behind things. For example, there are loads of incense sticks in the temples because the Vietnamese believe that when they pray, the smoke carries their prayers to a different world.
When we had been round the temples we went to have a buffet lunch. It was really good. There was a lot of fresh salad rather than the usual fried meat and oily vegetables. After lunch we went to the river in Tam Coc. We all got on little rowing boats and were taken down the river by the locals. It’s so pretty there and the locals row the boat with their feet! It’s insane
The boat trip took about 2 hours and we went into 3 little caves on the way.
Such a beautiful and calm place. We got back on dry land and were taken to a little place with loads of bicycles. I actually got a decent size bike with gears this time! Amazing! We went down the road for about 20 minutes stopping off to take pictures of the beautiful surroundings on the way
We came to the entrance of another temple that had been built half inside a cave. There was all water around it and you had to go over a little bridge to get there
We climbed up the steps into the cool cave and then carried on going up to a smaller temple building halfway up the mountain side. There was an option to keep on going right up to the top. It involved climbing over big rocks though. I was wearing flip flops and my leg was throbbing so I decided to sit it out. I think I made the right decision because when the girls came down they said it was quite precarious up there and I was a wise woman for not going. Haha.
We made our way back down all the steps and rode our bicycles back to the bus. Biking is such a lovely way to get around. It’s really hot but you get a cool breeze as you go. We got back on the bus to Hanoi at about 5 o’clock. As we got closer to Hanoi the traffic was mental. Everyone was trying to get in to the city for Independence day which was the next day. We were on the motorway and the roads were rammo. Amazingly our bus driver took one look at the traffic and just decided to do a 3 point turn and go back the way we came….. down the wrong side of the motorway. They literally don’t care. I was amazed. We took forever to get into the city. There were motorbikes and cars everywhere. Crazy traffic. I eventually got back to the hostel and met up with the others who had managed to make it back too. We went out and got some food. I had a delicious kebab off a street vendor. We were all pretty tired though so we went back after food and went to bed.
Wednesday 2nd September.
Independence Day
I got up at 6am to have some breakfast before going to see the parade that was taking place in the streets at 7am. I met some people in the hostel that were going as well so we all went together. The streets were rammed with people making their way to the closed off streets where the parade would pass through. I assume they do it so early because of the heat.. but it was still blummin hot! We managed to make our way through the crowds and found a decent spot. There were big screens erected which were showing the parade starting off near the Ho chi Minh Mausoleum. The parade took about 15 minutes to reach where we were standing. All the soldiers marched past in groups wearing their military uniforms. It was really great to see all the different sections; officers, soldiers, infantry, police, firebregade and loads of others. They were all marching along and singing and stamping their feet. I loved when the women went past, thy all had red lipstick on. There was one female platoon wearing a Brown uniform and they all had their hair in two plaits, as if it was part of the uniform. The parade must have lasted for about an hour.
After it finished we made our way back to the hostel. I was absolutely shattered and so went back to sleep for a few hours. When I woke up I said goodbye to Sabrina as she was flying back to Hong Kong before returning home to Austria.
I spend the afternoon wandering around and reading. I decided to sit in my dorm and air my burn wound out. Cuts never heal quickly because of the humidity. Sitting inside in a cool room really helped though and it finally closed up and started to heal. Two girls, Em and Chloe checked in to my dorm. They were going out to meet some others for dinner and asked me to join. There was a fireworks show scheduled for 9 o’clock over the lake as a final independence day celebration. We made our way to a smokehouse restaurant where we were meeting the others. Turns out the restaurant was inside the American embassy. So cool! We sat undercover from the pouring rain eating chicken wings while the fireworks boomed over head and lit up the sky. They were amazing. So loud but so impressive. Some of them even exploded in to smiley face shapes. I don’t think I’ve seen a display as good before !!
A perfect way to end my time in Vietnam. After it had all finished we made our way back to the hostel.
Goodbye Vietnam. It’s been amazing!
Next stop…. back to Thailand